M is for Métropolitain

When Paris decided it needed an underground train network, the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris, the metropolitan train company of Paris, was founded. It later bought up other smaller companies and incorporated their lines into its network, all under the name Métropolitain.
Unlike other big cities which have a certain uniformity in their underground/subway signage, Paris has various different signs signalling an entrance to the below-ground transport network.

It all started with the Société Nord-Sud, whose initials can still be seen in the frames of some billboards on the platforms.

Nord-Sud built and ran three metro lines in the early 20th century before being bought up by the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris

The most famous entrance signs are those created by Hector Guimard in Art Nouveau style. There were two different types, with and without a glass roof. Of the former, only two remain today, at the stations Porte Dauphine and Abbesses.

The roof-less type is quite numerous and can be found all across town.

This type was given to other cities around the world, such as Mexico City, Chicago, Lisbon, or Moscow. These are all copies, though, the only original one was given to Montreal at the occasion of the World Fair in 1867. It can be found at the station Square Victoria.

The 1920s saw the introduction of totem sign, first more elaborate

then simpler:

At Madeleine station, the totem signals a metro entrance that doubles as an underground passage.

A few stations have particular entrances, such as Vaneau.

The most easily visible sign, however, might be the unadorned yellow M, dating from the 1070s. Not to be confused with another yellow M, it is surrounded by a steel circle and illuminated from the inside at night.

And would you believe that this is a métro entrance? It is indeed, at the station Palais Royal. The kiosque des noctambules, the night-owls’ booth, was created by an artist and set up in the year 2000.

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Letter from Paris with a catch

Even if you’re only a little bit familiar with the French language, you’re bound to have noticed the slanting dashes the French put above certain vowels. At the very least you’ll know the one from café, right? There are three kinds, called “accents”, and you’ll see them mostly above the letter e but also sometimes with certain other vowels. However, do you know the catch (or hook) beneath the letter c?

This kind of c is called “c cédille” and like the accents above, it serves to indicate how the letter is pronounced. In French, the letter c can be pronounced “hard” like the C in Canada or “soft” like the C in Caesar (who is spelled César in French).

Normally, you pronounce a c the hard way when it is followed by the vowels a, o, or u or a consonant, and the soft way when it is followed by the vowels e or i or the letter y.
However, sometimes you have a soft c before an a, o, or u, and in that case you add the catch to indicate the exceptional pronunciation.
A very common example is the word ça (it/that), used all the time in the French equivalent of “How are you?”, namely “Ça va?” (the common answer to which is “Ça va”). It is also the French title of Stephen King’s novel “It”.

Another common occurrence is in the given name François, derived from “France”, also the French version of the current pope’s chosen name. France had two kings bearing that name in the 16th century. François II was the grandson of François 1er, with whom you might be familiar if you’ve been following me on Twitter, as he is an important character in my historic/time travel story.

Now that you know how to pronounce the name of two French kings and a French casual greeting, be advised that you might encounter the letter ç in other languages as well, where the pronunciation rule might be similar or different, for example in Turkish.

A final word: If you want to type the Ç or the ç on your non-French keyboard, hold down the ALT key and type on the number pad 128 for the upper-case and 135 for the lower-case “c cédille”.

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A is for Eiffel Tower

A is the first letter of the Latin alphabet, which makes it a logical starting point for a blog titled “Letters From Paris (And Other Missives)”.
Coincidentally, the most famous landmark of Paris also looks like the letter A.

A is for Eiffel Tower

So let the Eiffel Tower be my first letter from Paris. There will be more, and there will be other missives, as my title promises. I have lived in Paris for almost twenty years now, and my husband is a born-and-bred Parisian and a history buff to boot. Some time ago, a Canadian friend’s college-aged son was in town, and we treated him to a 13km unstructured history walk through parts of the Right Bank. This city is full of bits and pieces of history, even more fascinating for a North American, where a good part of man-made sights are a few hundred years old at the most.
Should I give you a chronological tour of Paris, go back to the pre-Roman conquest settlement on the river islands? Or should I start with some basic Paris geography?
I’ll do neither, but instead stick to my A as in Eiffel Tower and begin with a few fun facts on the Iron Lady, la Dame de Fer, as she (in French, a tower is female) is lovingly called.

Eiffel Tower with Mars field

Did you know that…

  • if you laid the Eiffel Tower down, it would just fit onto the Mars Field behind it?
  • the Eiffel Tower does not sit astride over a street (as I mistakenly thought up until my first visit)?
  • you can climb up to the second floor in the staircase in one of the pillars, and that the steps are numbered?
Location of the Eiffel Tower on a map of Paris
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