The Paris Games, Part Thirteen: Back for an Encore

School has started again; we’re at the beginning of September. But my husband enjoyed the Paraswimming so much, we go on the official ticket site and snap up two wheelchair tennis tickets for Wednesday afternoon. I love everything about the Games, and my husband is thrilled to get into the famous Roland Garros tennis grounds, which are inaccessible to ordinary folks during the Grand Slam tournament, the French Open.

But even before we head out to the Bois de Boulogne for the tennis, I set my alarm early again and on the way to work stop at Invalides for the Paratriathlon. Once again, the first event has to be postponed. Instead of Sunday morning, it is now held on Monday after the events scheduled for Monday.

As I arrive, I understand this time the river view is not accessible. So I make sure I get a good spot to see the cyclists. Lots of other people around me despite the fact that the summer holidays are over, and most Games tourists have gone home. The wheelchair triathletes are up first, and there’s a French athlete competing, I hear. When they zip past, we collectively scream our lungs out. What a way to start your day!

Tennis time!

We’re early at Roland Garros because we want to check out the whole site. There are two main courts for which you need specific tickets, Suzanne Lenglen, and Philippe Chatrier, for which our tickets are good.

There is a statue of Raphael Nadal who won the French Open more often than I can count, and the famous tennis Musketeers from way back when.

Rafael Nadal

We have great seats (that weren’t all that expensive), and of course we wear our new Games T-shirts.

The 3 “coups de bâton” open the session

The session starts with the three “coups de bâton”, and off we are for the first match, a quarter final opposing a Scot with his own tiny but very noisy fan club, and an Argentine.

The French fan corner fills up and Phryge the mascot arrives in the stands when a French player is scheduled for the next match, against a Spaniard.

Since it is Wednesday afternoon, when Paris kids don’t have school, there are several day camp groups. And once the kids understand how to launch audience cheers, the atmosphere heats up. However, this is still tennis, so the obligatory “Quiet, please” resounds again and again.

The final match of the day on our court is a doubles final, opposing Dutch and British players, so we get a medal ceremony at the end.

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The Paris Games, Part Twelve: Paraswimming

The Games are on again!

The Paralympics Opening Ceremony was held on the Place de la Concorde. While the athletes marched in, a group of life-sized Phryges played games (think catch and red light, green light) at the center of the square. We only saw that later in phone videos made by spectators, as the TV cameras were focused on the athletes.

La Phryge at Paris La Défense Arena

If we could love our Phryges any more than we already did, we would!

Finally, the day I’ve waited for since October is here: our Paraswimming session is on. Like most Games sites, the pool is temporary, the Paris La Défense Arena usually holds concerts and rugby matches. The three pools set up for the Games are already marked to go somewhere else. I think one of them will be reassembled in Toulouse later.

Warm-up at the Paralympics is just as chaotic as it is at my meets.

My choice of session proves lucky: We have a race with two French brothers, and another with Brazilian star Gabrielzinho. The warm-up doesn’t look so different from warm-ups at my own swim meets.

The three “coups de baton” open the session. We have a really good view of the pool. It’s all finals, and medal ceremonies are held in between races. One of the details you don’t see on TV: we see a camera man with a camera on his shoulder who keeps having to run the length of the 50m pool to film the swimmers as they arrive to the medal ceremonies held at the other end. At one point he sits down and massages his shoulder.

When the French Portal brothers arrive for their 400m freestyle race, the audience goes nuts. 400m is a mid-distance event, but it’s the longest race of this session. The atmosphere is incredible; we shout ourselves hoarse. Successfully, as Alex and Kylian win the silver and bronze medals. During their medal ceremony, the noise level reaches a new height.

Brazilian paraswim star Gabrielzinho

Gabrielzinho totally steals the show at his race, where he wins gold.

We saw a world record!

Being in the room where it happens is such an incredible experience!

A medal ceremony (flags being raised on one end, the podium on the other).
Canadian paraswimmer Tess Routliffe is interviewed by Canadian media after her silver medal in the 200 medley
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The Paris Games, Part Eleven: Games Not Over

The Grand Palais

We came home from holidays and went back to work. The Olympics were over, but the Games were not. Métro billboards showed athletes alongside the slogan “Games not over”. And they weren’t. The Paralympics were yet to come.

Olympics items were already on sale at the official Paris Games store

While the sites and the athletes’ village were adapted, we took advantage of the lull in visitors and stopped by the official store on the Champs Élysées, scoring limited edition shirts and, of course, the mascot.

The Grand Palais seen from the official Paris Games store on the Champs Élysées

The very ugly lone skyscraper in Paris, the Montparnasse Tower, was decorated with the effigy of Léon Marchand, France’s Olympic hero.

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The Paris Games, Part Ten: Olympics Live

Paris Porte de Versailles fairgrounds were rebranded as Arena Paris Sud

Friday came along, and I was far too early at Arena Paris Sud. The tram stop in front of the site was closed and you had to get off either at the one before or the one after, but again, pink signs and friendly volunteers were everywhere. Arena Paris Sud is the Paris fairgrounds, which I’m very familiar with due to it hosting the International Agricultural Fair every February. For Paris 2024, it hosted table tennis (featuring the French brothers Alexis and Félix Lebrun), handball, weightlifting, and volleyball. As I arrived, a big crowd of spectators left the grounds, apparently a handball match had just ended.

Left for handball and weightlifting, right for table tennis. (Volleyball is behind you.)

There were strict controls, not only of tickets but also of bottles. You had to take a sip from your bottle if it was full, but you could bring an empty one like I did and fill it up on the premises. Once inside, there was volleyball-themed entertainment for the visitors, and you could watch the two teams warm up. In my case, it was the favored Brazilian team against the outsiders from Egypt in a pool game that wasn’t shown on any of the French tv channels.

The Egyptian team warming up in Hall 1

Once we were seated, pre-game animations included an overview of the rules, and cues for us to encourage the players.

Warm-up in the arena

There was music too (“Walk like an Egyptian”), and during the national anthems, Brazilians outnumbered Egyptians among the spectators.

Even more important, there were the “trois coups de bâton”. This is a tradition from French theater, thumbing a staff three times on the floor to open the session. In more prestigious sessions, notables, celebrities, retired athletes, would give the signal. In my pool match, a volunteer did the honors. It still felt special. I was part of the experience, of the Olympic Games.

Unfortunately, the match was over quickly, the Brazilians beat the Egyptians 3:0 in 75 minutes. But my Olympic adventure wasn’t over yet. On the common premises of Arena Paris Sud, not accessible before the match, you could buy souvenirs at the official licensed shop and get your photo taken with the Olympic rings. You joined the line, and when it was your turn, a friendly volunteer would take your phone to snap a dozen pictures. Everyone waited patiently while you installed your kids, no one grumbled.

I’m at the Olympics!

Another volunteer sat in an umpire seat (think of a tennis match) and directed traffic, aka the various spectators ambling around after their sessions.

So much love for the volunteers! That guy in the umpire chair made some fun announcements.

Two ladies were in the line ahead of me, one carrying an umbrella to protect her from the sun. While volunteer 1 took the phones and the ladies went to pose with the rings, volunteer 2 held the umbrella over his colleague’s head.

These two volunteers were hilarious!

We were all having a good day. And mine got even better when I met Phryge, the Games mascot! Back in February, I was hesitant to embrace a giant plush version for a photo op at a sponsor’s stand at the Agricultural Fair, but here I was hugging and smiling and getting my photo taken.

Look, it’s La Phryge!

As we left town for our summer vacation, the second week of the Olympics happened on tv for me. I missed out on cheering the athletes at the Olympic marathon, or the people at the “marathon for all” that followed it; I didn’t see the road cycle race. What I did was stay glued to the screen when Léon Marchand, whose name I’d not heard before, swam to quadruple individual gold, winning two of those in a single day, and topping it off with a team bronze in the relay. How much I wish I’d been able to get tickets for Olympic swimming!

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The Paris Games, Part Nine: Tickets At Last (and a Free Triathlon)

Remember the expensive tickets? Finally, some promised cheap tickets showed up. Granted, it was on the official ticket exchange where you could resell your strictly personal ticket. With the Games already in full swing, I scored a 24 € ticket for a volleyball match on Friday morning. (I wanted a sport I know at least the basic rules off, and swimming was still very much out of reach.)

And there were also the street events. That’s what they called everything happening out in the open: road cycling, marathon, triathlon. Given the high security zones mentioned earlier, you’d think watching something for free would be impossible. Well, it wasn’t.

Alexandre III Bridge where the triathlon is about to start (Grand Palais in the background)

When I went to see the triathlon, the only problem was the (much maligned) water safety issue. The first day’s races had to be postponed, and even on the second day, it was still raining in the morning. The Pont Alexandre III bridge had stands for paying spectators and also the finishing line, while we onlookers crowded every available spot along the riverbanks.

You can see the paying spectators in the stands and the camera drone hovering in the air.

I literally went to see the triathlon on my way to work. Where I stood, we heard the starting signal, then saw the swimmers arrive and round the buoy, repeat this feat and then vanish from sight.

The triathletes have to swim around the yellow buoy.
Here they are in the foreground between the barrier and the first buoy.

While I made my way through the crowd back onto the street and toward the métro station, the athletes had already finished their first cycling lap and were racing past faster than I could point my camera.

I checked out the running part later on the replay, wondering which of the many colorful swim caps I had seen in the river had been the French triathlete Cassandre Beaugrand who’d gone on to win gold.

Some of the same triathletes now cycling.
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The Paris Games, Part Eight: The Cauldron

Remember the cauldron of Paris 2024? A golden hot-air balloon in the middle of the city?
Of course we had to go see it!

Free viewing tickets were impossible to get (like all tickets for these Games) but hey, the balloon was in the air, right? So on Sunday after the opening ceremony, we hopped on the métro and went into town. It was a lovely warm summer evening, and we walked from Invalides over to the Tuileries where the cauldron (la Vasque) was, staying on the opposite bank at first.

Then we crossed and realized we could get pretty close without any tickets whatsoever.

Did you know the Cauldron had no real flame? It was a LED lighting system plus a cloud of mist generated by a lot of water jets. We got to see it up close.

No real flame – it’s LED lights and a cloud of mist – awesome, right?

We finished off with some great shots from the Arc de Triomphe du Carroussel, the small triumphal arch just across from the Louvre. There were lots of people everywhere, and ten times more different languages than what you usually hear in the tourist areas of Paris. It felt very special to be a part of this.

The Vasque seen through the Arc de Triomphe du Carroussel
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The Paris Games, Part Six: The First Opening Ceremony

Finally, the moment has come. The day is here. It is Friday, July 26, 2024, and tonight’s the night of the Olympic Opening Ceremony.

No, wait. We’re not there yet. In the morning, France wakes up to reports of arson attacks on the French high-speed railway during the night. Chaos ensues, and reportedly, some spectators who paid a fortune for their Opening Ceremony seats (tickets cost over 1,000 euros) didn’t make it in time.

But now for real! We’re on the Seine river, it is Friday evening, and I give you—

RAIN!

Yes, thousands and thousands of spectators sit in temporary stands along the river between Austerlitz and Iéna bridges, and it’s pouring down on them. Also on the artists, the VIPS, the security people, and most importantly, on the Olympic athletes in their boats!

I watched a documentary later, and Tony Estanguet, head of the organizing committee and three-times Olympic champion, had tears in his eyes. He’d weathered everything, the arguments, the delays, the politics, and now just as his dream was coming true, the weather gods punished him.

Meanwhile, my family had the very best seats in the house: in front of the TV!

Best view in the house!

You see, the idea of holding the Opening Ceremony on the Seine meant that each spectator only saw a small part “live” and had to follow the rest on one of the big screens. Also, they were being rained down upon. Whereas we were sitting in our warm and dry living room, hadn’t spent a cent on tickets for the night, yet got the very best view.

Many Parisians had applied for free tickets, but those were obviously behind the 1,000-euro-seats and, just as obviously, in the rain.

I don’t regret anything about that night.

The Opening Ceremony changed everything. From the moment the French national colors blue-white-red exploded on Austerlitz Bridge, still hours before the Games were declared open, the mood changed.

Parade, the Paris 2024 hymn by Victor Le Masne

The ceremony was amazing. It started on a fun note, with comedian Jamel Debbouze (you might know him as architect Numerobis in “Asterix: Mission Cleopatra”) taking the Olympic torch to the Stade de France and finding it empty, only to have French football star Zinedine Zidane show up to save the day, racing with the torch into the métro. The métro (predictably) gets stuck, and Zizou tasks three kids with carrying the torch. They meet the Phantom of the Opera who rows them along an underground canal and onto the Seine. Later, a masked Assassin (from Assassin’s Creed, created in France) takes over and carries the torch over rooftops, checking in on rebuilt Notre Dame cathedral and rehearsals for Les Misérables musical. At one point, the torch is handed over to a cavalière on a silver horse named Zeus riding on the river to the Trocadéro. Only for more torchbearers to get in a speedboat and take the torch back to the Tuileries where the cauldron, a golden Montgolfière—a nod to History—is lit by an Olympian and a Paralympian.

Céline Dion rallies her voice to sing live from the Eiffel Tower, and a volunteer gets her fifteen minutes of fame holding the umbrella for organizing committee boss Tony Estanguet during his Opening Ceremony speech.

I was in tears in front of our TV screen. Skepticism? Forgotten. Let the Games begin!

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The Paris Games, Part Five: Wait what?

I don’t talk about politics on this blog, but the French President calling snap elections a few weeks ahead of the Olympics was on no one’s bingo card. As a result, we spent June in election mode, with voting taking place at the end of June and the beginning of July. This followed the European Parliament elections in early June.
Don’t ask.

The Assemblée Nationale – seat of the lower house of the French parliament

So here we are, with the world’s biggest sporting event about to begin, a host city full of disgruntled citizens who have just been forced to cast their votes and who only wish their summer vacation were already there.
But there are still a few more events coming first:

The Tour de France
The Tour is a huge annual event. It dominates French television for three weeks, even on rest days. This year, in order to avoid an overlap with the Olympics, the Tour started a week earlier than usual and finished for the first time ever far away from the capital, in Nice. (This should have scored with the disgruntled Parisians. Probably not, though.)

The 2024 Tour de France publicity cars in the Champagne region

The Tour de France racing past us in the Champagne

Bastille Day
July 14 is the French National holiday, with a big military parade and lots of flag-waving and fireworks. Nothing special to report there, but two days later the prime minister’s resignation was accepted. His government stayed on as caretaker government until all of Paris 2024 was concluded.

On July 17, the French mayor took a quick swim in the Seine, with dozens and dozens of journalists immortalizing her heroic feat. Talk about a political summer!

Promise, no more politics until September.

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The Paris Games, Part Four: Restrictions

As the Games approached, school was out for the summer, and posters popped up on métro billboards inviting Parisians to work from home, avoid public transport, avoid the stations of the Games sites, and generally stay away, when we’d been sold on the Games as a “Grande Fête Populaire” (a big party for all).

Locals were told to “anticipate” their travels on public transport during the Games (or stay home altogether).

We considered the very large security zones surrounding the Games sites exaggerated, and the Paris mayor’s attempts to relocate the Bouquinistes, you know, those traditional vendors of old books, maps, assorted stuff (and nowadays souvenirs), away from the Seine quais in view of the opening ceremony on the river were greeted with an outcry. She backed off.

In short, Parisians weren’t happy, and we weren’t looking forward to those weeks of projected chaos.

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The Paris Games

Having the Olympic and Paralympic Games in your hometown is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, right? One that most people will never have.
As you all know, the Games did come to my hometown in 2024, and I’m sharing my personal take on it in this summer series:

(The links will go live one by one as the posts publish every 3 days over the next weeks.)

Part One: Preparations

Part Two: Tickets

Part Three: Dress Rehearsal

Part Four: Restrictions

Part Five: Wait What?

Part Six: The First Opening Ceremony

Part Seven: The Games are On

Part Eight: The Cauldron

Part Nine: Tickets At Last

Part Ten: Olympics Live

Part Eleven: Games Not Over

Part Twelve: The Games are On Again

Part Thirteen: Back For an Encore

Part Fourteen: Games Still Not Over

Part Fifteen: Parade of the Champions

Part Sixteen: Games Cleanout Sale

Part Seventeen: Heritage

Part Eighteen: Zeus

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