Beavers, chameleons, and an unlucky bunny

If you come to Paris at a certain time of the year, or stay for a while and use public transport on a regular basis, you might come across some animals.

First up: Serge le lapin, the official Paris metro bunny and quite probably the stupidest and/or unluckiest bunny in France.
Serge has been around for 45 years, getting his paws stuck in the sliding metro doors. I’ve also spotted him getting hurt on the escalator.

So far so good, but what are the chameleon and the beaver doing on Paris transport? I’ll let you make a guess first, just for fun.

I’m sure you didn’t get it, it’s very far-fetched.

Caméléon (chameleon) and castor (beaver) are the names of two different replacement services. Caméléon busses jump into action when one of the RATP’s ten tram lines is interrupted for one hour or more.

Castor (beaver) is the name of the replacement bus service for the central Paris section of the RER C train that runs along the Seine river through aging tunnels . The almost two decade long “Beaver works” project takes place every summer when the section is closed down entirely for a month or longer, and the “beaver buses” take over.  Since this is high tourist season, and the closed section of the RER train includes Notre Dame, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, it might actually be useful to know.

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La Défense

La Défense is Europe’s largest purpose-built business district with 560ha (1,400acres). It is located outside the Paris city limits in the département Hauts-de-Seine. and divided between four municipalities: Puteaux, Courbevoie, Nanterre and La Garenne-Colombes.

The name stems from a monument called La Défense de Paris honoring the soldiers defending the city of Paris during the Franco-Prussian war of 1870. It was inaugurated in 1883 and has since been moved several times to accommodate the changing business district that now bears its name.

180,000 people work here, while only about 25,000 people live in the apartments that can be found in between the office towers. La Défense can be reached on public transport with the métro 1 which has two stations, one at each extremity: Esplanade de La Défense and La Défense (Grande Arche), as well as with the RER A at the La Défense station.

The axis in its extension from the Champs-Élysées was drawn under Louis XV, but it was only in the 1960s that the business district began to grow. It went through several stages until it became the collection of skyscrapers that it is today. Currently its highest tower is the Tour First at 231m, which is also France’s highest skyscraper.

Visitors to La Défense will notice the long esplanade stretching along the center of the district and culminating in the Parvis square between the CNIT, the Quatre Temps Shopping Center and the Grande Arche.

The Parvis with the CNIT on the left and the Quatre Temps shopping mall to the right – in the distance, the Arc de Triomphe

The CNIT is the oldest building of La Défense and the largest unsupported concrete span enclosed space in the world. Entry is free, you just need to look up to see the impressive roof structure.

inside the CNIT

The Quatre Temps Shopping mall was the most visited shopping mall in France in 2019.

Below the esplanade hides a network of streets, the métro, the RER train, delivery docks, service and  emergency access roads, and parking garages.

La Défense métro station below the Esplanade
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The First Métro Line

The first métro line in Paris was opened for the 1900 world fair. It ran from Porte de Vincennes on the eastern city limits to Porte Maillot on the western end and linked the different sites of the world fair as well as the Olympic games sites in the Bois de Vincennes. Today, it runs as far west as the La Défense business district which is outside the city limits.

Line 1 runs pretty much straight east-west on the historic axis of Paris, including the Avenue des Champs Élysées.

It crosses every other metro line except for the 3 and the 10 and is the most used, both by locals and by tourists, serving notably the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Champs Élysées.

Built in part under the open sky, notably under the rue de Rivoli and the Champs Élysées, the corresponding stations are boxes the width of the street. Their walls are practically on the same level as the foundations of the buildings above.

Under the street…
…the métro station.

The boxes were covered with a roof, as above at the Hôtel de Ville station with steel bars and rivets.

When the metro trains were lengthened from 5 to 6 cars, the platforms had to be extended as well, from 75 to 90m. In stations with fewer passengers, they simply dug into the tunnels, as at the far end of Saint Paul station below.

Since 2013, the line 1 is entirely automatic. In order to avoid any accidents or suicide attempts, all stations have glass walls along the entire length of the platform. There is no driver and you can stand at the head of the train. Let me take you on a ride.

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M is for Métropolitain

When Paris decided it needed an underground train network, the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris, the metropolitan train company of Paris, was founded. It later bought up other smaller companies and incorporated their lines into its network, all under the name Métropolitain.
Unlike other big cities which have a certain uniformity in their underground/subway signage, Paris has various different signs signalling an entrance to the below-ground transport network.

It all started with the Société Nord-Sud, whose initials can still be seen in the frames of some billboards on the platforms.

Nord-Sud built and ran three metro lines in the early 20th century before being bought up by the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris

The most famous entrance signs are those created by Hector Guimard in Art Nouveau style. There were two different types, with and without a glass roof. Of the former, only two remain today, at the stations Porte Dauphine and Abbesses.

The roof-less type is quite numerous and can be found all across town.

This type was given to other cities around the world, such as Mexico City, Chicago, Lisbon, or Moscow. These are all copies, though, the only original one was given to Montreal at the occasion of the World Fair in 1867. It can be found at the station Square Victoria.

The 1920s saw the introduction of totem sign, first more elaborate

then simpler:

At Madeleine station, the totem signals a metro entrance that doubles as an underground passage.

A few stations have particular entrances, such as Vaneau.

The most easily visible sign, however, might be the unadorned yellow M, dating from the 1070s. Not to be confused with another yellow M, it is surrounded by a steel circle and illuminated from the inside at night.

And would you believe that this is a métro entrance? It is indeed, at the station Palais Royal. The kiosque des noctambules, the night-owls’ booth, was created by an artist and set up in the year 2000.

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